Why do we choose Ascorbyl Glucoside and 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid forms for our formulas?
Let's start by remembering why vitamin C is needed in the routine:
✨ it is involved in collagen synthesis, meaning it is essential for skin elasticity, which is why it is often found in protocols for ageing skin
✨ it has a strong antioxidant effect, i.e. it levels the damaging effects of free radicals (I remind you that the free-radical theory is considered one of the main theories of ageing).
✨ lightens and evens skin tone by inhibiting melanin synthesis, thus it is one of the most desirable ingredients for skin with post-acne and pigmentation.
✨ strengthens the walls of blood vessels, so vitamin C is essential for skin with couperose.
Why don't we use ascorbic acid (the acidic form of vitamin C)? Because it's not 1980 anymore, scientists have long ago learnt to synthesise stable forms that don't oxidise and don't require any tambourine dancing (e.g. keep the jar in the fridge or use it only at night). The forms we have chosen are super effective and suitable even for sensitive skin, but acidic vitamin C is ‘famous’ for its irritating potential.
1️⃣ Ascorbyl Glucoside is the gold standard.
Why such a pathos name? Well, because the form is stable, it works at low concentrations (2% will already maximise results), it doesn't irritate the skin and, the cherry on the cake, it has efficacy in brightening. This form retains all the properties of L-ascorbic acid, demonstrating much deeper penetration, stability and therefore effectiveness.
This form is found in Super C Glow Serum and Antioxidant Vitamin Serum
2️⃣ 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, light and temperature resistant form of vitamin C. It is soluble in both oil and water. Well tolerated by the skin even in high concentrations (so 10% will not irritate even sensitive skin). It works with pigmentation and uneven tone, it is used as an auxiliary component in acne correction and in anti-aging (it participates in collagen synthesis).
This form is suitable for skin prone to oiliness. Effective concentration: 0.1-3% (2% effective = 15% L-ascorbic acid). We have 10%.
Because non-acidic forms of vitamin C do not release ascorbic acid instantly, the possibility of side effects is reduced compared to using pure ascorbic acid.
This form is found in Diamond Brightening Serum